A transnational pilot on food, migration, and cultural belonging in Europe
Sobremesa: Vagaries of the Palette
A Prologue
"The world was so recent that many things lacked names, and in order to indicate them it was necessary to point."
— Gabriel Garcia Marquez, One Hundred Years of Solitude (1967)
"Exclusion by those at the table doesn't depend on willful intent; we don't have to intend to exclude for the results of our actions to be exclusion"
— Robin DiAngelo
Sobremesa: Vagaries of the Palette is the pilot project which lingers post-meal, post-action, at the afterparty, and post-performance, in spaces where guards lower and the metaphorical seat at the table showcases the failings of the project of integration. Food here refuses neutrality: no mere conviviality or cultural diffusion, but a charged medium, material witness to nation-states and their identity construction. Starting in Southern Europe, with borders that were once permeable by south of the south and east of east, the project acknowledges cuisines as constructions that disregard their mobility shaped by displacement, trade routes, and survival tactics - on the one hand diluting incoming food cultures while on the other hand entirely excluding them from the table. The question isn't perhaps about who gets a seat at the table, but where the table starts and ends.
And so, the question that remains - Can the countries within, let alone Europe (whole), claim cultural homogeneity? Does the project of unification risk the differences inhabiting the regions? And yet, what, if at all, is the criticality of the classification against which this project positions itself?
This transnational pilot - supported by the European Union - situated in and between Greece, Portugal, Italy, and the Basque region of Spain, confronts gastronationalism's grip on Europe and against "Bourdainification" of the media culture around food. Through practice-led methodology, co-curatorial fieldwork, transnational residencies, communal programmes translating research into lived experience, sustainable partnerships - Sobremesa reveals internal borders: migrant routes absent from maps, diasporic ferments erased from heritage.
B Artistic Director
Aishwarya Kumar
Aishwarya Kumar is the Artistic Director of Sobremesa: Vagaries of Palette, a Creative Europe small-scale cooperation project (Feb 2026-May 2027). Leading the consortium across Italy, Portugal, Basque region of Spain, and Greece, the pilot confronts nation-state identities through food practices via co-curatorial research, transnational residencies, and transdisciplinary dissemination against gastronationalism.
Since 2016, Kumar's practice examines systems and aesthetics through performance, with fieldwork across South Asia, Northern and Southern Europe. Her research intersects corporeality and cognition, analyzing body-space interactions on perception through film, visual arts, and endurance methodologies (dance, somatics, deep sea diving). Founder of Stage Rabbit studio - producing artists from Portugal, India, Belgium, Spain - she curated Down The Rabbit Hole pavilion for The Wrong Biennale (Nov 2025-Mar 2026).
Trained in Bharatnatyam, Information Arts (India), and Media/Performance theory (Netherlands), she is an FCT scholar and PhD candidate at Universidade Católica Portuguesa researching 21st-century diasporic curiosity. Her recent work has been disseminated through Junctions Journal (2021), Kochi-Muziris Biennale (2023), Contemporanea (2024), Arte Capital (2024), Culture Moves Europe grant (Poland 2025), assistant curator A Study in Isolation, Universe Pavilion (Venice Biennale 2025).
c Project partners
d Special thanks
Suruchi Pawar, Federico Rudari, Luisa Santos, Rissa Miller, Diane Giraud, Pino Ficara, Soumyabuddha Debnath, Michiel Jansen, Bedirhan Sen, Lia Reihtner, Mirna Bamieh, Johnny Madge, Federico Bossone